Piston Kit
Piston Kit
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![POLARIS Indy 550 top end kitpistonsgasketsYOUR CYLINDERS BORED TO SIZE]](http://www.johnmcswain.com/images/e/160726189460_0.jpg) |
POLARIS Indy 550 top end kitpistonsgasketsYOUR CYLINDERS BORED TO SIZE] |  |
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US $330.00 | 5h 25m |
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Wiseco Pistons and Rings Kawasaki 900 ZXI | |
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US $300.00 | 5h 31m |
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Kawasaki 1100 DI WSM Piston Kit FAST SHIPPING STX Ultra 130 JT1100 JH1100 | |
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US $66.50 | 2h 26m |
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Kawasaki 300SX WSM Piston Top End Rebuild Kit 300 SX JS300 with Gaskets | |
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US $76.50 | 4h 36m |
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kawasaki 440 550 mikuni 44mm carb intake flame arrestor jetski NICE 1973 1990 JS | |
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US $199.99 | 4h 16m |
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Yamaha Wave Venture 1100 Rebuilt Crankshaft | |
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US $349.00 | 2h 42m |
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Kawasaki Ultra 150 1200 STX R OEM STD Piston Kits | |
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US $71.99 | 7h 57m |
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YAMAHA GP 1300 R GP1300R WSM PISTON KIT 040 OVER 85MM | |
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US $84.95 | 9h 6m |
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SEA DOO 717 720 WSM PISTON KIT STD 82MM | |
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US $75.95 | 11h 1m |
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Yamaha 800 ProX Top End Rebuild Kit XL800 XLT800 GP800 GP800R XL XLT GPR Piston | |
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US $295.00 | 7h 53m |
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LEM Products 5 Pound Stainless Steel Vertical Sausage Stuffer
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Description5-lb. Vertical Stainless Steel Sausage Stuffer. Perfect sausage every time! Nothing beats homemade! Clamp the Stainless Steel Stuffer to a table or countertop and crank it out! The special air valve release pushes air out the top... Features
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VacMaster 87630 Pro 130 Food Sealer, Back
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DescriptionCommercial quality Digital technology LCD panel display. Reduces spoiled & wasted foods. Automatic & manual customizable modes as well as "seal now" option. Commercial grade dual piston pump capable of drawing 25" hg vacuum level... Features
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FoodSaver - GameSaver
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DescriptionGameSaver - Turbo Plus WhiteManufacture ID: T000-00340FoodSaver GameSaver Turbo Plus with built-in roll holder and cutter is a powerful top-of-the-line one-touch vacuum packaging system for hunters and fisherman... Features
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ONE2FLUSH Dual Flush Toilet Conversion Kit Bonus Pack with new improved handle design, Better Fill water saving fill valve 3 St. Steel Bolts,Tank Bowl Gasket. Convert existing toilets to efficient dual flush toilets that Exceed Green Plumbing Codes.
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DescriptionThe One2flush Dual Flush Bonus Pack from Being Water has all you need to upgrade your toilet to High Efficiency toilet standards without throwing your 3.5 gal or 1.6 gal toilet into the landfill. Unlike Quick Fix/Drop in products that alter your existing worn out flapper valve with sometimes leaky results, One2flush is a permanent solution to wasting 1000's of gallons of water at the toilet... Features
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Porter-Cable FR350A Round Head 2-Inch to 3-1/2-Inch Framing Nailer
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DescriptionIdeal for carpenters, woodworkers, and do-it-yourselfers, the Porter-Cable FR350A 3-1/2-Inch Round-Head Framing Nailer Kit has all the power you need to drive round-head framing nails into engineered lumber... Features
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Professional Disc-Brake Caliper Wind-Back Tool Kit
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DescriptionRotates piston back into caliper for fitment of new brake shoes !!!11 pcs kit rotates piston back into caliper for fitting of new brake shoes. Can be use on most domestic and imports including Europe and Japan models such as Mercedes, BMW, VW, GM, Audi, Ford, Honda, Subaru, Mazda, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Rover 4wd. Features
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Motorcycle and Atv Cylinder Rebuilding Options
Recent History of Cylinder Types
The oldest and most common method of cylinder design is a cast iron block that is machined with a cylindrical bore directly from a solid casting. There is also a cast iron block that incorporates a sleeve that is pressed into the iron block. Generally iron block motors weren’t very successful in small engines. Most small engines were used in vehicles and equipment that needed to be light and mobile. This made cast iron blocks undesirable for this purpose. There were a lot of single cylinder motors used in lawn mowers, construction equipment, scooters, small tractors and small motorcycles that used cast iron block motors in the early years. These began to disappear in the 60’s and they were replaced by aluminum block motors with cast-in iron liners. This opened the door for new lightweight motors that could be used in many more applications and in bigger displacements than ever before. This was accomplished by placing a cast iron sleeve into the mold before the molten aluminum was poured into the mold. This made the sleeve an integral part of the cylinder block. The sleeve usually had locking rings or flanges around the outside to prevent it from slipping in the casting as the engine expanded from the heat generated by the combustion process. A major problem occurred often when air pockets would develop during the casting operation around the sleeve. This caused hot spots and often caused premature engine cylinder failure.
There is another type of aluminum block with a cast iron sleeve that wasn’t cast-in; it is installed in the block after casting. The cylinder bore of the aluminum block is machined to 3-5 thousands of an inch less than the sleeve diameter, block is then heated to around 600 degrees Fahrenheit, and the sleeve is dropped in. When the block cools the sleeve is held in place by the interference fit and the flange at the top or bottom of the cylinder. This cylinder can be rebuilt by simply re-heating the block to 600 degrees and removing the old sleeve and replacing it with a new one. Of course the finish bore will have to be machined to size and honed.
Near the end of the last century it was discovered that you could make a mold pattern using a computer aided molding system out of Styrofoam. This made it possible to have precise duplicate patterns of a particular cylinder that you wanted to mold of aluminum.
These are placed in a mold made of sand, molten aluminum is then poured slowly into the mold melting and replacing the Styrofoam pattern. This process is called total loss mold casting. Now all they have to do is a little milling and drilling, plate the bore and hone to size. For the two stroke market the best part of this is the finished product is an identical copy of the original. The factories love this because it just eliminated a whole lot of assembly line workers. No more absenteeism, no health insurance or pensions, and no coffee breaks. As far as the consumer goes they get a cylinder that doesn’t need a lot porting before they can be competitive.
There are a lot of four stroke motors that use aluminum blocks and aluminum sleeves that are plated a variety of hard finishes. These sleeves can be removed and replaced. The replacement sleeve can be either iron or aluminum. If you want an aluminum sleeve it will have to be plated after installing otherwise it won’t be true and round.
There are several types of plating that has been used over the years, and the companies doing plating guard their formulas carefully. The finish in the early years was a simple chrome or hard chrome electro-plating. The plating was generally only a few thousands of an inch thick. If it was more than about ten thousands of an inch thick it was prone to chipping or flaking because of heat expansion and contraction. In the early seventies Electrofusion became popular. Electrofusion was different from electroplating in as much as it was a fusion process instead of electroplating. Next there was ceramic composites and Boron. All of these perform in about the same way as far as wear and durability. Then there was Nikasil. Nikasil was a new plating formula of nickel-silicon-carbide. It was harder than the others that came before it. For years you couldn’t get a cylinder re-plated when you damaged one, the only way to get going again was to buy a new one. Now you can choose from many companies doing their own version of Nikasil.
Now let’s look at a person’s choice of repair or rebuilding methods for their Motorcycle, ATV, Snowmobile, Personal Watercraft, or Outboard. You can have your Nikasil or other plated cylinder re-plated (or some called it re-coated). This includes the composite types.
Or you can have it sleeved with a hardened alloy steel or cast iron (when you add alloys to iron its considered steel). If your cylinder has an iron sleeve already, whether it’s cast-in or not, you’re only real choice is replacing it with another sleeve or a sleeve liner.
Let’s assume you’re an avid racer and race 25 weekends a year, you’re going to need a rebuild of your cylinder by the end of the year no matter what type cylinder you have. If it is a plated type cylinder you have three choices. 1- buy a new cylinder for $500-600 for the top end and expect to do the same next year. 2- re-plate it for about $300-400 with piston kit and gaskets and figure on doing it again next year. 3- have it sleeved for about $250-350 with piston kit and gaskets and next year have it bored (most models) to the next size for about $55 plus piston kit and gaskets.
A properly sleeved cylinder will perform as well as any plated cylinder. A properly sleeved cylinder is one that has the proper interference fit, proper pre-sleeve bore finish, accurate flange machining, and sleeve made from the proper alloys. The most popular sleeve is the Moly 2000 chrome-moly iron. The proper boring and honing to match the piston clearance requirements goes without saying.
Pros and Cons
Re-Plated Cylinder Bore
Pros
• Small advantage in heat transfer
• Slightly better wear factor
• Somewhat lower co-efficient of friction
• Weighs a few ounces less
Cons
• Costs slightly more
• Can’t be bored when damage occurs
• More fragile
• Can flake and peel
Iron Sleeved Cylinder Bore
Pros
• Costs less
• Boreable for future over sizes
• Honeable to keep bore true and proper ring seal
• Can be worked with common tools
• Can be replaced when needed
Cons
• Slightly slower heat transfer
The Bottom Line
Both systems perform equally well when professionally done, so it really comes down to economics. You can expect a sleeved cylinder to give more life for the money. Re-plated cylinders are as close to original as you can get. So if you’re happy with your OEM plated cylinder you should have it re-plated. If not have it sleeved by a company that has the reputation, experience, and warrantees to protect your investment. http://kustom-kraft.com
About the Author
does anybody know where i can find rings and piston kit for a 1982 honda xr80?
i need to find a website where i can find and order rings and piston kit for 1982 honda xr80 if you know of any plz let me know.im slowly going to restore the bike and i figured ill start with internal parts first ok thanks
Just an idea, if you are replacing the piston and ring anyway, and especially if there is any cylinder damage, you may consider over-boring and adding the Powroll big bore kit to give it a little more get up and go.
http://www.powroll.com/P_HONDA_XR80_79-00.htm
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